Wednesday, December 31, 2014

On the Road

Some time ago I began a meditation practice and study of Buddhism, which led to an interest in learning about India's culture and religions. Although I am engaged in Buddhism, I'm a practicing Catholic. These may seem like divergent paths but they both teach similar values. I'm curious about all religions. All the great religions are in harmony with truth. I'm often drawn to the question, What's calling me?

India is considered the land of spirituality and birthplace of religion-Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism. Hinduism is the oldest religion in the world, and the dominant religion in India with its pantheon of gods, goddesses. The population of India is 1.2 billion people and made up of 80% Hindu, 14% Islam, 2% Christian, 2% Sikh, 1% Buddhist, and 0.5% Jain. Visiting India has been a goal of mine for some time. Mark Twain once said, "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness, and many people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all of one's lifetime."

So, I decided to pursue my goal of learning more about India not just from books but first hand experience, and make a real connection with people in India. I traveled to Delhi, Amristar, Dharmasala, Simla, Chandigarh, Bikaner, Mandawa, Jodhpur, Pushkar, Jaipur, Agra, Varanasi, and Bodhgaya, covering more than 5000 km's, by car, and a couple of flights. I immersed myself India's culture, and had many fascinating conversations with a lot of people. From my experience India could be described as a potpourri of many unique and interesting things; friendly people, chaotic, rich history, over population, vibrancy, optimism for a better future under Prime Minister Modi, Gandhi, Neru, independent, busy, beautiful monasteries, temples and shrines, mosques, Vedic rituals, brilliant colors, pashmina scarves, meditation and yoga, tourists, ancient holy cities, beautiful gardens, art, holy cities, ghats, Ganges River, Taj Mahal, birthplace of Buddhism, rickshaws, motor bikes, bargaining, beggars, bazaars and markets, leprosy, dust, heat, pollution, unsafe drinking water, air pollution, unsanitary rest rooms, asceticism, prayerfulness, unproductive workers, museums, music, poverty, crematoriums, animals everywhere, sacred cows, camels, boars, elephants, monkeys, traditions, Bhagavad Gita, caste system, rice fields, underpaid farm workers, Dharma, noise, arranged marriage, astrology, delicious cuisine, Dal, mo mo's, vegetarians, Kingfisher beer, spices and chi tea. Everyone I met radiated friendliness.

Pia Mollback Verbic, director of Quipper Research may have said it best, 
"India is simply a minefield of relentless, emotional and daily challenges for most non-Indians, and nothing less than a riddle obstacle course, which can only be navigated with a hearty dose of humor, expansive capacity for patience, and tolerance for the illogical" 

Yes, India is !ncredible.  I've always enjoyed being on the road. It has taught me much about life being away from home, but this journey to India was my greatest teacher, as it opened my eyes and gave me a broader perspective on life. It enabled me to see things so differently from what I had seen before and accustomed to. Its made me appreciate how fortunate I am being born in America with so many advantages and living in the beautiful state of Vermont with its fresh air, green mountains, orchards, fairs, corn-fields, country stores, ice cream, cheeses, beers, skiing, clean lakes and rivers, maple syrup, farms, horses, churches, chicken, cows, hearty people, quietness and rich most of all, the most of all the quality of life.  

Life is a journey and this journey was filled with so much life. 
This is the first blog, so I'm new at this. My intention was to post for my family and friends each day while in India, but because of poor Internet connection I was not able to do so. So, this is a historical view of my trip. I hope you'll find this interesting (Italics for emphasis are mine).


Here's a map of my 5000 kilometers On the Road



Namaste

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Sept 23 - Staging Area

Pack lighter

A few days before departure, Kathy took this shot of my packing staged in the guest bed room: 3 pairs of hiking pants/shorts, extra shorts, 3 long sleeve, 2 short sleeve shirts, 1 hat, 1 fleece, 1 bathing suit, 1 pair of gloves, 2 pairs of shoes, toiletries, first aid kit, small camera, keyboard for my iPad, water filter and bottles, power cords, documents, guide books, maps and a journal. I squeezed everything into my large LL Bean duffel bag. I also loaded my back pack with my I-phone, itinerary, passport/visa, and lots of reading material for the long flight.


Within a week in India I realized I packed way too much and wished I had simplified. The next time I'll pack lighter.

Sept 26 - Arrival Delhi

Gandi International

I arrived at Indira Gandhi International at 12:30 am after a 20+hour Lufthansa flight.  The 1-hour cab ride to the hotel was my first sight of Indian poverty; many homeless people sleeping on the side of the road among cows, camels and dogs. The airport is big, beautiful and modern.


Delhi, the capital of India, and second largest city in India, has a population of 12 million people. Hindi is the main language, often intermixed with English

Monday, December 29, 2014

Sept 26 - Delhi

Day of Sightseeing

After a good first night's sleep in the Hotel Broadway I decided to take a walk into the city for the first time, where I saw so much happening: brilliant colors, horns blowing, rickshaws, traffic jams, crowded streets, garbage, (holy) cows and camels pulling wagons. I had never seen anything like it. Most striking were the very friendly people. Every time I greeted someone with 'Namaste' they responded in kind with a smile. I felt and an immediate connection. There were vendors everywhere cooking tempting food, but I resisted not wanting to take the risk of getting sick. This was the most colorful and alive city I've ever seen. Later I visited the immense Red Fort built in 1638 of red sandstone. It's a reminder of the power and pomp of the Moghul emperor, and includes the Hall of Public Audience, white marble Hall of Private Audience, The Pearl Mosque, The Royal Baths and The Palace of Color. 


Sept 27 - Delhi

Unexpected change of plans

Saturday morning I bought a local SIM card from Airtel for 500 rupees ($8) which my 
daughter in law, Sharon, recommended. She saved me a lot of money on phone calls home every day. I walked through the markets and bazaars of Old Delhi, which were busy and heavily congested - amazing! Each street specialized in a commodity: colorful fabrics, linens  & shawls, clothing, jewelry, all kinds of food--fruits, cheese, tea, and Indian spices. There were even shops that specialize in wedding fabrics.  Then I went to the president's house, India Gate, Parliament and the main Historic Gurudwara Bangla Sahib Sikh temple. 
I arrived at the train station for the 4:30 pm train to Amritsar, but told it was delayed 7.5 hours due to massive flooding in Kashmir. I found a travel agent who changed my itinerary to include the western state of Rajasthan. Later, I made an afternoon visit to the Lodi Garden, built in the 15th century during the Afghan Dynasty which then ruled northern India.




Sept 28 - Delhi

Gandhi

I began the day with a visit to the Birla House, where MK Gandhi (1869-1944) spent the last 144 days of his life and was assassinated January 30, 1948. It is now known as the Gandhi Smirti and is the eternal Gandhi museum. It is filled with a large collections of books, art, photos and memorabilia connected with Gandhi. On display were the few possessions he owned at the time of his death, perhaps ten, a walking stick, clock, eating utensils. I was moved by his simplicity. He said, "Live simply so that others may simply live."
Also on display is the blood soaked shawl he wore when assassinated. 

Gandhi is regarded by most everyone as India's greatest leader. This was an inspirational experience. 

Paintiing of Gandhi




Gandhi's simple office
Gandhi's bedroom



Sunday, December 28, 2014

Sept 29 - Jallianwala Bagh, Amristar

Amristar Massacre

After the Golden Temple I visited the scene of the Amritsar massacre of April 13, 1919. Brig. General Michael Dwyer of the British Indian Army ordered his 50 riflemen to fire thousands of rounds into the crowd of unarmed, non-violent protestors celebrating the Punjabi New Year. Within 10 minutes 1000 were dead, and more wounded. These people were protesting the arrest of two of their leaders. Dwyer claimed he was confronted by a 'revolutionary army' and was applauded by the British House of Lords. Winston Churchill however condemned the attack referring to it as "monstrous." A year later the Hunter Commission condemned his actions, and relieved him of his command. On March 13, 1940, in London he was assassinated by Udham Singh, who as a boy had witnessed the events in Amritsar. Sing was later hung for having assassinated Dwyer.
Well house where people fled to save their lives
Bullet holes from the 50 riflemen

Painting of the massacre with well house on the right