Oct 16 Sarnath

Yamuma Expressway

I drove four hours north to Delhi on October 15 on the New Yamuna Expressway, a modern six lane highway, and the best road I had seen in India. Most roads in India are horrible. Along the way I again saw women farm workers in the fields and wondered how much they are paid for such hard work. 

Roadside view of farm workers

I checked into the Ikon Residency hotel at 8 pm, then had a another delicious dinner of chicken and fried rice at the Chimney Restaurant, where I had eaten before. Back at the hotel I said goodbye and expressed my thanks to Vipan for driving me the past eighteen days. We had many good conversations on the road together, and I will always remember his cheerfulness. 

Varanasi

Early morning I caught a one hour Air India flight to Varanasi, where I was met by my guide, Sandy Panden, a 34 year old Brahman, married with three young children. He had been a guide for several years. I noticed a small statue of a figure with an elephant head on his dashboard. He told me it was Ganesh, god of wisdom, knowledge and new beginnings, remover of obstacles, and one of the most worshiped deities in the Hindu pantheon. Along the way Sandy jokingly said the 'major sport here in India is horn honking.' His parents live with him, as is the custom. In India the eldest son is responsible for the care of his parents, including medical expenses. This is India's social security system as there is no government system.

Sarnath 

After checking into the Hotel India Varanasi, I drove 13 kilometers north east to Sarnath.
I met Ashok, a Buddhist teacher, who encouraged me to generate 'good karma.' He took me to the main Buddhist temples, first the Dehamek Stupa, built 273 BC by King Ashoka. This is where the Buddha after attaining enlightenment at Bodh Gaya gave his first discourse The Four Noble Truths and Middle Way. Here the Buddha encountered the five ascetics who were his companions earlier, and became his first disciples. I saw several monks sitting on the grass listening to a Dharma talk. This was a wonderful experience as this is the birthplace of Buddhism. 

Ashok

I then visited the Mulagandakuti Vihara temple, where there is a beautiful statue of Buddha and fresco's. 

Monk guarding the alter

Murals inside Mulagandhakvti Vihara temple

Mulagakdhakvti Vihara temple

Near the temple is the Deer Park where deer still live.

Deer park

Deer Park

Near the deer park I saw this depiction of the Four Noble Truths. Imagining the Buddha give his first teachings here was humbling.

Four Noble Truths

Prayer wheels surrounding the temple

Buddha giving his first discourse to his five Bhikkhu's. 

Sarnath Bodi Tree

Vajra Vidya Institute

I visited Vajra Vidya Institute, where there are sometimes more than 500 monks studying higher Buddhist philosophy. This Tibetan college (shedra) was founded in 1993 and blessed by the Dali Lama. Monks enrolled in the college study the Kagyu lineage for seven years. Inside the main temple is a grand statue of the Buddha.

Buddha statue inside the temple

Vajravida Institute

Thai Buddha Vihar

I visited the Thai Buddha Vihar, one of the main attractions of Sarnath. It stands 80 ft. tall and was made of 815 sandstones. Construction began in 1977 and completed in 2011. It was built to protest the destruction of Buddhist statues around the world. It was the most awesome statue of the Buddha I've seen. Around the outside of the statue are statues of Buddha's disciples, and the Thai temple. 

Thai Buddha Vihar 80ft tall

Thai Buddha statue

After seeing the Thai Buddha statue I visited an art gallery and observed an artist making a gold leaf mandala symbolizing, sacred path of purity, wheel of time, wheel of life. This gave me a better understanding of Tibetan mandalas. 

Tibetan mandala

There are many Buddhist temples and colleges in Sarnath, including the Sanskrit University. Sarnath is a fascinating city.

Vipassana

On the way back to Varanasi I visited the Vipassana Dharma center where I met Harllsing, an 89 year old teacher, and Atai a small sized man who gave me a tour of the Dharma hall and dining room. The Shelburne Falls, Ma Vipassana center is five-star hotel compared to this. A 10 day retreat here would really test my strength. 

Ajai leading me on a tour of Vipasaana

Harllsing

I then drove back to Varanasi for the evening Aarti ceremony held on the main ghat on the Ganges.