I learned a lot, and I'm grateful for traveling much of northern India and the many conversations with people of all ages and backgrounds. Here's some things I learned and I'm happy to share:
History of India
Before India there was the Indus Valley Civilization of 3300 - 1300 BCE, which occupied what is now Afghanistan, Pakistan, and northwest India. India was formed by a series of Indo-Aryan (Aryans means noble ones) invasions which began around 1750 BC. Nomadic light-skinned Indo-European tribes came from the north-west of Central Asia and conquered 5-million of the indigenous and more advanced dark skinned civilization, the Dravidian's. The Aryans were Persians, Greeks, Huns, Araba, Turks, Portuguese, British and so on. They brought with them their Sanskrit language and Vedic scriptures, which is the root of Hinduism. They also took with them their priestly cult of caste (caste system), later to become the bane of Indic society. Another theory is that the Dravidian's migrated into India from Central Asia a few thousand years earlier. The Indo-Aryans worshipped the Vedic Deities, especially Indra. This map shows the migration of the Indo-Aryans into what is now called India.
A few facts
- India has the world's largest democracy
- Its population is 1.2 billion
- Relations with the US are good
- Relations with Pakistan are not so good
- Narenda Modi of the BJP party became prime minister in 2014
- The prime minister is the chief of government and advisor to the president
- India became independent from Britain in 1947
- Its government is based on the British Parliamentary system
- In the 1970's it moved from a socialistic to a free market economy
- Its labor force is 60% agricultural, 28% service, including outsourcing from other countries, and 12% industry
- India's GDP per capita is $5.4 thousand vs. Pakistan $4.5 thousand, and US $53 thousand
- India experienced rapid growth for a decade but it's economy is now stagnant and inflation of 9% is outpacing GDP growth by a factor of two to one.
- 20% of the economy consists of federally funded companies which are said to be poorly managed.
- Half of the country's land is used for farming; rice, wheat, cotton, sugarcane, and jute
- Bollywood is one of the worlds largest movie industries.
- India's infrastructure is pathetic; roads, bridges, sanitation, Internet, and water. It will take $1 trillion or more to being it up to minimum global standards.
- There is a lot of corruption in the government, bribes, etc.
- Family is very important to society; several generations often live in the same house
- Family is the primary social security system, there is no government system
- In rural areas poor people often live in huts, in urban cities people live in high rise apartments
- 25% of the population of India lives in poverty vs. 14% in the US
- India's unemployment rate was 10% in 2010 vs. 4% in 2012
- Air pollution is a serious issue, and causing a reduction of crop yields by 50%.
- India's most populated cities are Mombai and Delhi, 12 million people each
- Average college tuition is $1500 a year vs US $25,000, Sweden and Germany $0
Hinduism
Hinduism is the dominant religion in India, with a wide spectrum of laws based on karma and social norms rather than a set of beliefs or creed. It is both a religion and a social system, way of life, philosophy or code of conduct. It is referred to as the Dharma, the way or the path. The codes of conduct are in the ancient Veda scriptures. There is no founder of Hinduism. The Hindu pantheon includes many gods and goddesses. Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan, one of India's scholars said, "Hinduism is not just a faith. It is the union of reason and intuition that cannot be defined but only experienced."
Hinduism is the result of centuries of evolution by numerous spiritual movements within India, possibly out of a fusion of Vedic Brahmanism and Buddhism and other Shamanic religions. At the time of the Buddha (563 BCE - 480 BCE or 400 BCE) Hinduism did not exist. The main religion was Brahmanism. The Buddha was critical of Brahmanism, the caste system, Brahman priests and disputed the Vedic scriptures and their authority. The Buddha did not perceive himself to be part of the prevailing Brahmanism.
Today there is a lot of religious tolerance which allows Hindus to experience God in their own way that suits each person best. It is a monotheistic religion believing in one all pervasive supreme God viewed as the ultimate reality, but Hindus approach God in three-forms called the Trimurti (or Great Trinity), Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Brahma is the god of universal creation. Vishnu is the protector of creation, destructor, maintainer and preserver of the universe. Shiva is the great destroyer (of the ego, false identification of form) and transformer of the world. His destructive power opens the path for a new creation and beauty. Shiva worshippers (Shaivites) are among the most ascetic yogis with their bodies smeared with ashes. A Hindu might say, "All Hindu gods and goddesses are the same god or divine energy, but I like my Hindu god and goddess best."
There are different Hindu sects with different views of the supreme God. Sauram, which worships Saura as the supreme God, and does not accept the Trimurti. Vaishnavism, which also does not accept the Trimurti and regards Vishnu as the supreme God who produced Brahma and Shiva. Shaivism-Shaivites believe that Shiva is the supreme God who performs creation, preservation, dissolution, concealing grace, and revealing grace. Smartism is a denomination that places emphasis on five deities rather than a single deity. Shakyas worship the goddess Shakti as the supreme.
Hindu's believe in one God through different gods and goddesses is because the people of India with different languages and cultures had understood God in their own distinct way. It's interesting that the choice of a God or deity is left to the devotee to worship and cultivate. To a Hindu God is all pervasive, and inside each soul, waiting to be discovered, and the purpose of life is to get closer to God, and building good Karma for the soul will achieve union with the Devine.
The oldest Vedic texts is the Rig Veda written 1700-1100 BCE. The Upanishads, which includes some of the central religious concepts of Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism, was composed 1200-600 BCE.
One of my favorite Hindu texts is the Bhagavad Gita, which my friend from Woodstock, George taught me. Gandhi referred to the Gita as his spiritual dictionary.
Hindu's believe that truth is eternal, truth is one, Brahma is truth and reality, the Vedas are the ultimate authority, everyone should strive to achieve dharma, or right conduct, individual souls are immortal (atman), and the goal of the individual soul is moksha (liberation) - release from the cycle of death and birth (samsara). To Hindus life is a cycle of living, dying and reincarnation. Each rebirth is dependent of how the previous life was lived.
Here are my notes on Hinduism taken while riding in the back seat of my guide, Vipan's car. Vipan is a Brahman.
Buddhism
Siddhartha Gautama was the founder of Buddhism. He was born a Kshatriya warrior prince in what is now Lumbini, Nepal around 563 BCE. His family of Sakya Kshatriyas were of Brahmin lineage. After asceticism and meditation he discovered the Middle Way - a path of moderation away from self-indulgence and self-mortification.
Buddhism is one of the oldest religions practiced today. It grew steadily from its beginning 2500 years ago in northeastern India and was the state religion for many years under King Asoka in the 3rd century BC. King Ashoka who ruled all of India, regarded Buddhism as a doctrine that could serve as a foundation for society. He was a wealthy philanthropist and built many Buddhist temples, stupas, and monasteries. It was during Ashoka's reign that Sri Lanka (Celon) that first became a Buddhist country. (If it were not for Ashoka I wonder if Buddhism would have flourished?) Today about 2%, or one million of the Indian population are Buddhists. There are about 300 million Buddhists worldwide, and 8 million in India.
Buddhism influenced most of the Asian continent. The main schools of Buddhism. are Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana.
The fundamental truths on which Buddhism was founded are not theological but psychological. The Four Noble Truths; that all life is inevitably sorrowful, sorrow is due to craving, sorrow can only be stopped by stopping of craving, and this can be done by moral and ethical conduct (Sila), concentration (Samadi) and wisdom (Prajna).
Buddhism is a non-theistic religion. To some, like me, Buddhism is a philosophy or way of life. Buddhism provides a code of life, rather than dogma or set of rules.
Vedanta Society
Vedanta founded in 1898 by Swami Vivekanada (1863-1902) is one of the most ancient religious philosophies and one of the broadest. It is one of six orthodox schools of Hinduism. It affirms the oneness of existence, divinity of the soul and the harmony of religions. The main Vedanta texts consist of the Upanishads, Brahma Sutras, and the Bhagavad Gita. The Indian center is in Belur Math, near Calcutta, and there are Vedanta society centers in America and Europe. I do not know the population.
Sikhism
Sikhism began in India 500 years ago, and broke from Hinduism, due to its rejection of the Caste System. It is a monotheistic religion believing in one God. Its founder was Guru Nana. Its primary source of scripture is the Guru Granth Sahib. Most Sikhs in India live in the Punjab region. They believe in Karma, as do Buddhists, Jains and Hindus.The main place of worship is the Golden Temple in Amritsar, which I visited. Men and women sit apart. Sikh men wear unshorn hair (kesh) protected with a dastaar, or turban.
Jainism
Jainism also began in India. Its original teacher was Vardhamana Mahayira "The Great Hero" who was a contemporary of the Buddha. It is a atheistic religion, Jains believe that there is a soul in all living beings and that the soul (jiva) can regain its purity and enjoy Nirvana through liberation from all worldly matters. They prescribe non-violence toward all living beings. Some practice extreme asceticism, and some pull their hair out as a form of penance. About four million Jain's live in India, and none live in the US.
Karma
Karma (means volitional action) is deeply rooted in Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. It stems from the Vedic scriptures. It is called the "law of cause and effect". It's based on the notion that a person's actions in this life will have an effect in their next life. Adherents place importance on living a moral and ethical life so when they are reborn into their next life it will be a better one. The ultimate goal is Moksha, or Nirvana, where one is liberated from the cycle of birth and death (samsara). My guide in Bodh Gaya, Ashok, told me to generate "good Karma" - a good idea whether you believe in reincarnation or not.
Many Hindus have a place in their home or car for the gods and goddesses. My drivers had a statue of Lord Ganesha on their dashboard for good luck, the remover of obstacles. This reminded me of how some Catholics a place a statue of St. Christopher on their dashboard for safe travel.
Cremation
Most Hindus are cremated. Ideally a deceased person's body is cremated at the sacred Ganges River in Varanasi. The family builds a pyre made of wood, and places the body on the flames. I witnessed cremations in Varanasi. I was told that the two most expensive things a family spends in India are cremations and weddings.
Mantras and chanting
Mantra means sound, prayer, thought or group of words believed to have psychological and spiritual power. The repetitive chanting of a mantra is intended to calm ones mind. Early mantras were composed in the Vedic Hindu period 3000 years ago, and still used today by Hindu's, Buddhists, Jains, and Sikhs. They are typically melodic. The most basic mantra is Om, and the most popular Tibetan mantra is Om mani padme hum, which is the one I use to relax. I saw many Tibetan monks at the Dalhi Lama's temple in Dharmasala and walking on the streets using their prayer beads, presumably reciting 'Om mani padme hum.' I later heard that the Dalhi Lama's favorite chant is the "Tara" chant.
Prayer flags, beads and wheels
Tibetan prayer flags are everywhere in Dharmasala. My Tibetan guide told me what each colored flag signifies; Yellow-earth, Green-water, Red-fire, White-air/cloud/wind, and Blue- sky/space. They are hung to catch the breeze for people to accumulate merit by being close to the flags. There is similar merit for a person turning prayer wheels.
Prayer beads originated in India around the 8th century BCE. They are used to help a person recite a chant or count the breath. Buddhist prayer beads have 108 round seeds which represent the impurities one must overcome to reach Nirvana. I saw many Tibetan monks using prayer beads in Dharmasala. Brother Sangay, a Tibetan monk who lives at the Dalhi Lama's temple taught me how to use them.
Another greeting is 'Shanti Shanti' which means 'I wish for you peace, rest, calmness, tranquility, and bliss'. T. S. Elliot's poem The Wasteland describes it as, "The peace which passeth all understanding."
Bindi
Married women in India wear a red dot known as a 'bindi', 'tika' or 'kumkum', as a sign of marriage, and guarantee of social status.
For Hindu men there are four stages of an ideal life, called Ashram's. Stage one is student, Stage two is householder, when a man earns a living to support his family. Stage three is when a householder renounces all material possessions. Stage four is when a man is totally devoted to God.
For Hindu women there are three stages of life. Stage one is an unmarried girl where she is respectful of her parents and prepares for marriage. Stage two is a married women who is dedicated to her husband. Stage four is widow, who is protected by her eldest son.
Arranged marriage
Arranged marriage is an ancient tradition and alive in India. Marriage in India is different than the Western world. Marriage is regarded as an alliances between families and is for the purpose of reproduction and economic stability, and not for love. My driver Ravi told me the first time he met his wife Pinky was on their wedding day, and love came later. Divorce is uncommon and socially stigmatized. It is the role of a mother to choose her son's wife. She does so by vetting the potential wife, and may use an astrologer to make sure the couple is compatible. "This is not the time for love, there's plenty of time for that later. Is he from a powerful family?" The bride's parents are expected to put up a dowry, but this does not always happen. Married Hindu women are expected to live up to the ideals of the Stri Dharma, the duties of a good wife. It is hoped that a wife will give birth to sons. A study reported that 99% of abortions are performed on female fetuses. In the past female babies were abandoned but this is no longer common.
Sati
The death of a husband is a crisis for a Hindu wife, and begins her entrance into her third stage of life of sati or widowhood. Sati is when a widow burns herself alive on her dead husbands funeral pyre. The life of a widow is a difficult one, so death may be preferred.
Weddings & Cremations
These are the most expensive things a family spends money on in India.
Family values
Family is woven into the fabric of India's culture. Indians place a high value on the interests of their family, and less on individualism. A family often consists of the father, mother, children, and grand parents living in the same home. The male is given more importance than his female counterpart. There is no social security system, so the oldest son is responsible for the well being of his parents when they retire. This was the case with my guides.
Indian cuisine uses a lot of spices. The common spices are curry, chili, cardamon, pepper, cumin, cinnamon, garlic and many more. I had curry dishes often. Restaurant waiters would also ask me 'spicy?' and I responded 'sure.' I never had a dish that was too spicy. I bought spices and Marsala tea from a small shop in Pushkar to bring home.
Dal
Dal (pronounced dawl), made from dried split pulse, lentils and rice is a staple in India. I ate it often, and it's very tasty.
Chi-tea is a popular beverage in India, and is served everywhere as a gesture of hospitality. It's made of hot milk, cardamon, cinnamon, ginger and sugar, and is cooked in a pot over hot coals, and served in clay cups. I had Chi-tea every day, and it's delicious!
Narenda Modi, 64 years old, of the BJP party, won the election in May 2014 defeating Manmohan Sing of the Congress party, a Sikh. He's a visionary. Every person I spoke with liked Modi and was optimistic that he will improve the economy. Everyone was happy about India's relations with the US because of Modi's visit with Obama in the US while I was there. One of Modi's initiatives is to clean up India which is very much needed.
Here's some of the symbols I saw which reflect India's identity.
Buddhist Dharmachakra wheel.
Royal Tiger - the national animal
Rupee - the national currency
Chanting
Hinduism is the result of centuries of evolution by numerous spiritual movements within India, possibly out of a fusion of Vedic Brahmanism and Buddhism and other Shamanic religions. At the time of the Buddha (563 BCE - 480 BCE or 400 BCE) Hinduism did not exist. The main religion was Brahmanism. The Buddha was critical of Brahmanism, the caste system, Brahman priests and disputed the Vedic scriptures and their authority. The Buddha did not perceive himself to be part of the prevailing Brahmanism.
Today there is a lot of religious tolerance which allows Hindus to experience God in their own way that suits each person best. It is a monotheistic religion believing in one all pervasive supreme God viewed as the ultimate reality, but Hindus approach God in three-forms called the Trimurti (or Great Trinity), Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Brahma is the god of universal creation. Vishnu is the protector of creation, destructor, maintainer and preserver of the universe. Shiva is the great destroyer (of the ego, false identification of form) and transformer of the world. His destructive power opens the path for a new creation and beauty. Shiva worshippers (Shaivites) are among the most ascetic yogis with their bodies smeared with ashes. A Hindu might say, "All Hindu gods and goddesses are the same god or divine energy, but I like my Hindu god and goddess best."
There are different Hindu sects with different views of the supreme God. Sauram, which worships Saura as the supreme God, and does not accept the Trimurti. Vaishnavism, which also does not accept the Trimurti and regards Vishnu as the supreme God who produced Brahma and Shiva. Shaivism-Shaivites believe that Shiva is the supreme God who performs creation, preservation, dissolution, concealing grace, and revealing grace. Smartism is a denomination that places emphasis on five deities rather than a single deity. Shakyas worship the goddess Shakti as the supreme.
Hindu's believe in one God through different gods and goddesses is because the people of India with different languages and cultures had understood God in their own distinct way. It's interesting that the choice of a God or deity is left to the devotee to worship and cultivate. To a Hindu God is all pervasive, and inside each soul, waiting to be discovered, and the purpose of life is to get closer to God, and building good Karma for the soul will achieve union with the Devine.
The oldest Vedic texts is the Rig Veda written 1700-1100 BCE. The Upanishads, which includes some of the central religious concepts of Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism, was composed 1200-600 BCE.
One of my favorite Hindu texts is the Bhagavad Gita, which my friend from Woodstock, George taught me. Gandhi referred to the Gita as his spiritual dictionary.
Hindu's believe that truth is eternal, truth is one, Brahma is truth and reality, the Vedas are the ultimate authority, everyone should strive to achieve dharma, or right conduct, individual souls are immortal (atman), and the goal of the individual soul is moksha (liberation) - release from the cycle of death and birth (samsara). To Hindus life is a cycle of living, dying and reincarnation. Each rebirth is dependent of how the previous life was lived.
 |
| OM, symbol of Hinduism |
Buddhism
Siddhartha Gautama was the founder of Buddhism. He was born a Kshatriya warrior prince in what is now Lumbini, Nepal around 563 BCE. His family of Sakya Kshatriyas were of Brahmin lineage. After asceticism and meditation he discovered the Middle Way - a path of moderation away from self-indulgence and self-mortification.
Buddhism is one of the oldest religions practiced today. It grew steadily from its beginning 2500 years ago in northeastern India and was the state religion for many years under King Asoka in the 3rd century BC. King Ashoka who ruled all of India, regarded Buddhism as a doctrine that could serve as a foundation for society. He was a wealthy philanthropist and built many Buddhist temples, stupas, and monasteries. It was during Ashoka's reign that Sri Lanka (Celon) that first became a Buddhist country. (If it were not for Ashoka I wonder if Buddhism would have flourished?) Today about 2%, or one million of the Indian population are Buddhists. There are about 300 million Buddhists worldwide, and 8 million in India.
Buddhism influenced most of the Asian continent. The main schools of Buddhism. are Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana.
The fundamental truths on which Buddhism was founded are not theological but psychological. The Four Noble Truths; that all life is inevitably sorrowful, sorrow is due to craving, sorrow can only be stopped by stopping of craving, and this can be done by moral and ethical conduct (Sila), concentration (Samadi) and wisdom (Prajna).
Buddhism is a non-theistic religion. To some, like me, Buddhism is a philosophy or way of life. Buddhism provides a code of life, rather than dogma or set of rules.
Vedanta Society
Vedanta founded in 1898 by Swami Vivekanada (1863-1902) is one of the most ancient religious philosophies and one of the broadest. It is one of six orthodox schools of Hinduism. It affirms the oneness of existence, divinity of the soul and the harmony of religions. The main Vedanta texts consist of the Upanishads, Brahma Sutras, and the Bhagavad Gita. The Indian center is in Belur Math, near Calcutta, and there are Vedanta society centers in America and Europe. I do not know the population.
Sikhism
Sikhism began in India 500 years ago, and broke from Hinduism, due to its rejection of the Caste System. It is a monotheistic religion believing in one God. Its founder was Guru Nana. Its primary source of scripture is the Guru Granth Sahib. Most Sikhs in India live in the Punjab region. They believe in Karma, as do Buddhists, Jains and Hindus.The main place of worship is the Golden Temple in Amritsar, which I visited. Men and women sit apart. Sikh men wear unshorn hair (kesh) protected with a dastaar, or turban.
Jainism
Jainism also began in India. Its original teacher was Vardhamana Mahayira "The Great Hero" who was a contemporary of the Buddha. It is a atheistic religion, Jains believe that there is a soul in all living beings and that the soul (jiva) can regain its purity and enjoy Nirvana through liberation from all worldly matters. They prescribe non-violence toward all living beings. Some practice extreme asceticism, and some pull their hair out as a form of penance. About four million Jain's live in India, and none live in the US.
Karma
Karma (means volitional action) is deeply rooted in Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. It stems from the Vedic scriptures. It is called the "law of cause and effect". It's based on the notion that a person's actions in this life will have an effect in their next life. Adherents place importance on living a moral and ethical life so when they are reborn into their next life it will be a better one. The ultimate goal is Moksha, or Nirvana, where one is liberated from the cycle of birth and death (samsara). My guide in Bodh Gaya, Ashok, told me to generate "good Karma" - a good idea whether you believe in reincarnation or not.
Many Hindus have a place in their home or car for the gods and goddesses. My drivers had a statue of Lord Ganesha on their dashboard for good luck, the remover of obstacles. This reminded me of how some Catholics a place a statue of St. Christopher on their dashboard for safe travel.
 |
| Lord Ganesh |
Islam
Islam is a mono-theistic religion expressed in the Qur'an which Muslim's consider the word of God, and the teachings of Muhammad. Islam came to India in 1656 AD. There are 172 million Muslim's in India, representing 14.2% of the population. The biggest mosque is Jama Masjid in Delhi, which I visited, and it's beautiful.
Baha' i Faith
Baha'i Faith is a mono-theistic religion founded by Baha'ullah in 19th Century Persia. It emphasises the union of all mankind. The three principals are; the union of God, there is only one God who is the source of all creation, the unity of religion, that all religions have the same spiritual source and come from the same God, and the union of humanity, that all humans have been created equal. There are about 7.5 million followers worldwide, of whom 2.5 million live in India. The Lotus Temple in Delhi is one of its places of worship, and attracts 4 million people each year. I visited it and found it spectacular.
Zoroastrianism
Zoroastrianism began about 1000 BCE by its founder Zoroaster. It is a mono-theistic religion. There are about 2.6 million adherents worldwide and about 69,000 live in India, mostly in the western state of Gujarat.
Catholicism
There are 19 million Catholics in India. Thomas the Apostle is credited for bringing Christianity in AD 52. Christianity is growing in India. Mother Teresa lived most of her life in India, and founded the Missionaries of Charity. I visited one of the two Catholic churches in Varanasi, and felt at home, as I'm a Catholic.
Judaism
Judaism is one of the first foreign religions to arrive in India in recent history, and arrived in 562 BCE. About 5000 Jews now live in India.
Yoga
Islam is a mono-theistic religion expressed in the Qur'an which Muslim's consider the word of God, and the teachings of Muhammad. Islam came to India in 1656 AD. There are 172 million Muslim's in India, representing 14.2% of the population. The biggest mosque is Jama Masjid in Delhi, which I visited, and it's beautiful.
Baha' i Faith
Baha'i Faith is a mono-theistic religion founded by Baha'ullah in 19th Century Persia. It emphasises the union of all mankind. The three principals are; the union of God, there is only one God who is the source of all creation, the unity of religion, that all religions have the same spiritual source and come from the same God, and the union of humanity, that all humans have been created equal. There are about 7.5 million followers worldwide, of whom 2.5 million live in India. The Lotus Temple in Delhi is one of its places of worship, and attracts 4 million people each year. I visited it and found it spectacular.
Zoroastrianism
Zoroastrianism began about 1000 BCE by its founder Zoroaster. It is a mono-theistic religion. There are about 2.6 million adherents worldwide and about 69,000 live in India, mostly in the western state of Gujarat.
Catholicism
There are 19 million Catholics in India. Thomas the Apostle is credited for bringing Christianity in AD 52. Christianity is growing in India. Mother Teresa lived most of her life in India, and founded the Missionaries of Charity. I visited one of the two Catholic churches in Varanasi, and felt at home, as I'm a Catholic.
Judaism
Judaism is one of the first foreign religions to arrive in India in recent history, and arrived in 562 BCE. About 5000 Jews now live in India.
Yoga
Yoga has been a part of India's culture for thousands of years. There are several yoga centers throughout India. My guide, Vipan taught me a movement which I've used since coming home.
Temples
There are many temples (mandir) in every city, of every religion, small and big, old and new, perhaps more than 500,000! Temples are considered the house of God, and dedicated to one deity. The principal Hindu mandir is the Golden Temple, dedicated to Lord Shive. I visited many, and could have spent more time doing that.
 |
| Laxminaryan Hindu temple in Delhi |
Language
There are several languages spoken in India but 80% of the people speak Hindi and English. Very few of the people I met did not speak English. The Dravidian language is spoken in southern India, which is also the language of Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh. I often heard people intermix Hindi and English. Hindu scholarship revolves around the ancient language of Sanskrit (means the most refined language) and it remains the main language of worship but spoken only in a few communities, and mostly by Brahman priests. Non-Brahman spoke simpler varieties called Prakrits. The earliest known form of Sanskrit goes back to the Vedas as far back as 1500 BCE. Young Brahmin boys still learn it to recite the oldest Vedic scriptures which are much older than the Bible. It has been described as 'more perfect than Greek, more copious than Latin, and more exquisitely refined than either'. Some experts believe that its roots are from the migrating Aryans.The earliest known form of Sanskrit goes back to the Vedas. Other Sanskrit related languages include Avadhi, Punjabi, Bengali, Gujarati, and Hindi.
Cremation
Mantra means sound, prayer, thought or group of words believed to have psychological and spiritual power. The repetitive chanting of a mantra is intended to calm ones mind. Early mantras were composed in the Vedic Hindu period 3000 years ago, and still used today by Hindu's, Buddhists, Jains, and Sikhs. They are typically melodic. The most basic mantra is Om, and the most popular Tibetan mantra is Om mani padme hum, which is the one I use to relax. I saw many Tibetan monks at the Dalhi Lama's temple in Dharmasala and walking on the streets using their prayer beads, presumably reciting 'Om mani padme hum.' I later heard that the Dalhi Lama's favorite chant is the "Tara" chant.
Prayer flags, beads and wheels
Tibetan prayer flags are everywhere in Dharmasala. My Tibetan guide told me what each colored flag signifies; Yellow-earth, Green-water, Red-fire, White-air/cloud/wind, and Blue- sky/space. They are hung to catch the breeze for people to accumulate merit by being close to the flags. There is similar merit for a person turning prayer wheels.
Prayer beads originated in India around the 8th century BCE. They are used to help a person recite a chant or count the breath. Buddhist prayer beads have 108 round seeds which represent the impurities one must overcome to reach Nirvana. I saw many Tibetan monks using prayer beads in Dharmasala. Brother Sangay, a Tibetan monk who lives at the Dalhi Lama's temple taught me how to use them.
 | ||||||
Prayer flags at Norbulinka Institute, Dharmasala
To know India is to know the caste system. Last spring I studied at Dartmouth, The Caste System of India taught by Prof. Ellison, who is a great teacher. The caste system came from the ancient Vedic scripture, The Laws of Manu. Its purpose was to ensure order in society so that everyone had a distinct role. It stratified people into distinct groups. I met people of every caste. |
Brahmin - the priestly or intellectual caste, who knows the god Brahma
Kshatriyas - the warrior caste, soldiers, politicians, lawyers (Buddha was from this caste)
Vaishyas - the commerce/trade caste
Shudras - the agricultural caste, semi skilled workers, manual labor
Untouchables, also known as Dalits - the out of caste. I saw many untouchables, often cleaning latrines.
Intermarriage or socializing between castes is forbidden. Although the caste system was officially abolished when India achieved independence in 1947 it is still prevalent. Twenty years ago the government began reserving funds for affirmative action measures to make up for 3000 years of a caste system that allowed society to stratify.
Although three of my driver guides were Brahmin's, they were not orthodox, or of a high social class. I recently read that many Brahmin's today are working in lower class occupations, such as my drivers. Some Brahmans are even doing work traditionally done by Dalits. "The times they are a changin." as Bob Dylan sang.
There are also hundreds, maybe even thousands, of sub-castes within the four major castes, It's complicated. People seem to accept their caste without complaint. Mahatma Gandhi, and B.R. Ambedkar fought against the caste system. Some of my guides were Brahman but were not wealthy or scholarly. I saw a certain degree of arrogance in some Brahmin's, which I found unsettling. I think it's a flawed system, and very discriminating. I'm grateful to have been born in America and able to freely choose my occupation, friends, and wife.
Sacred Rivers
The three sacred rivers in India are the Ganges, Yamuna and the invisible Sarasvati, which runs underground.
Population
Male Culture
India is a male dominated culture, and women are often subservient. Men appear to hold the power, and they can be hard on women. I saw this firsthand when I overheard my driver Vipan talking down to his wife on his mobile multiple times.Kshatriyas - the warrior caste, soldiers, politicians, lawyers (Buddha was from this caste)
Vaishyas - the commerce/trade caste
Shudras - the agricultural caste, semi skilled workers, manual labor
Untouchables, also known as Dalits - the out of caste. I saw many untouchables, often cleaning latrines.
Intermarriage or socializing between castes is forbidden. Although the caste system was officially abolished when India achieved independence in 1947 it is still prevalent. Twenty years ago the government began reserving funds for affirmative action measures to make up for 3000 years of a caste system that allowed society to stratify.
Although three of my driver guides were Brahmin's, they were not orthodox, or of a high social class. I recently read that many Brahmin's today are working in lower class occupations, such as my drivers. Some Brahmans are even doing work traditionally done by Dalits. "The times they are a changin." as Bob Dylan sang.
There are also hundreds, maybe even thousands, of sub-castes within the four major castes, It's complicated. People seem to accept their caste without complaint. Mahatma Gandhi, and B.R. Ambedkar fought against the caste system. Some of my guides were Brahman but were not wealthy or scholarly. I saw a certain degree of arrogance in some Brahmin's, which I found unsettling. I think it's a flawed system, and very discriminating. I'm grateful to have been born in America and able to freely choose my occupation, friends, and wife.
Sacred Rivers
The three sacred rivers in India are the Ganges, Yamuna and the invisible Sarasvati, which runs underground.
Population
China is the largest populated country in the world with 1.6 billion people. India is the second largest population in the world with 1.3 billion people, or 18% of the world's population. It is 80.5 % Hindu, 13.4% Muslim, 2.2 Christian, 1.9% Sikh, 0.8% Buddhist, 0.4% Jain, and 0.6% other. There are 9 women to 10 men in India.
Male Culture
Land of Riches
In spite of immense poverty, India is a land of riches with its ancient history, traditions, diverse culture, religions, colors, cuisine, sacred rivers, and most especially its people.
Rooftops
Chillin on rooftops, especially in Rajasthan was great. Many of my hotels had rooftop restaurants that enabled me to view the city and hear the sounds of fireworks while enjoying a Kingfisher beer and dinner. I often called home to Kathy from hotel rooftops.
Greetings
Namaste, which means 'I bow to you' is the Hindu greeting and good-bye to everyone. I found it amazing how easy it was to connect with everyone with a slight bow and saying Namaste, or Namaskar to a senior person, with palms pressed together, fingers pointed upward. It's a sign of respect and gentle yet powerful gesture.
In spite of immense poverty, India is a land of riches with its ancient history, traditions, diverse culture, religions, colors, cuisine, sacred rivers, and most especially its people.
Rooftops
Chillin on rooftops, especially in Rajasthan was great. Many of my hotels had rooftop restaurants that enabled me to view the city and hear the sounds of fireworks while enjoying a Kingfisher beer and dinner. I often called home to Kathy from hotel rooftops.
Greetings
Namaste, which means 'I bow to you' is the Hindu greeting and good-bye to everyone. I found it amazing how easy it was to connect with everyone with a slight bow and saying Namaste, or Namaskar to a senior person, with palms pressed together, fingers pointed upward. It's a sign of respect and gentle yet powerful gesture.
 |
| Namaste |
Married women in India wear a red dot known as a 'bindi', 'tika' or 'kumkum', as a sign of marriage, and guarantee of social status.
 |
| Married women wearing a painted red bin |
Unmarried girls
Unmarried girls also wear a bindi but not a red dot, and it is used more as a fashion statement.
SIM Card
My daughter in law, Sharon, told me to change my SIM card when I got to India, otherwise it could have cost a ton of money to use Verizon to call home. So, when I arrived in Delhi I bought an Indian SIM card from Airtel for 200 rupees ($3) and called home every day for just $2 for 121 minutes. There were Airtel and Vodafone stores everywhere. Thanks Sharon!
SIM Card
My daughter in law, Sharon, told me to change my SIM card when I got to India, otherwise it could have cost a ton of money to use Verizon to call home. So, when I arrived in Delhi I bought an Indian SIM card from Airtel for 200 rupees ($3) and called home every day for just $2 for 121 minutes. There were Airtel and Vodafone stores everywhere. Thanks Sharon!
Stages of life
For Hindu women there are three stages of life. Stage one is an unmarried girl where she is respectful of her parents and prepares for marriage. Stage two is a married women who is dedicated to her husband. Stage four is widow, who is protected by her eldest son.
Arranged marriage
Arranged marriage is an ancient tradition and alive in India. Marriage in India is different than the Western world. Marriage is regarded as an alliances between families and is for the purpose of reproduction and economic stability, and not for love. My driver Ravi told me the first time he met his wife Pinky was on their wedding day, and love came later. Divorce is uncommon and socially stigmatized. It is the role of a mother to choose her son's wife. She does so by vetting the potential wife, and may use an astrologer to make sure the couple is compatible. "This is not the time for love, there's plenty of time for that later. Is he from a powerful family?" The bride's parents are expected to put up a dowry, but this does not always happen. Married Hindu women are expected to live up to the ideals of the Stri Dharma, the duties of a good wife. It is hoped that a wife will give birth to sons. A study reported that 99% of abortions are performed on female fetuses. In the past female babies were abandoned but this is no longer common.
Sati
The death of a husband is a crisis for a Hindu wife, and begins her entrance into her third stage of life of sati or widowhood. Sati is when a widow burns herself alive on her dead husbands funeral pyre. The life of a widow is a difficult one, so death may be preferred.
Weddings & Cremations
These are the most expensive things a family spends money on in India.
Family values
Family is woven into the fabric of India's culture. Indians place a high value on the interests of their family, and less on individualism. A family often consists of the father, mother, children, and grand parents living in the same home. The male is given more importance than his female counterpart. There is no social security system, so the oldest son is responsible for the well being of his parents when they retire. This was the case with my guides.
 |
| Ravi's family: wife Pinky, son Lucky and daughter |
Food
Many, but not all Indians are vegetarians. Hinduism frowns upon eating meat, as it is considered an act of harm to animals. Virtually no beef is eaten as cows are treated as sacred. Indians eat mainly with the fingers of the right hand, or sometimes spoons, but knives and forks are not used. They wash their hands before and after eating.
Chicken and mutton (lamb) are popular meat dishes. Rice and naan bread are served with almost every meal, and are delicious. Naan bread is used to scoop up food. Restaurant menus include two sections, vegetarian and non-vegetarian. I lost weight while in India but never felt hungry.
Indians make great yogurt. It's more liquid than American yogurt. Amritsar is considered to have the best yogurt in India, so I made sure to have it there, and got hooked. I had it often as a pro-biotic.
Indians make great yogurt. It's more liquid than American yogurt. Amritsar is considered to have the best yogurt in India, so I made sure to have it there, and got hooked. I had it often as a pro-biotic.
 |
| Delicious naan bread |
 |
| Yogurt |
Momo's
Momo's are a popular Tibetan steam dumpling served with a filling and a side of sauces. I had them several times and they were delicious!
Momo's are a popular Tibetan steam dumpling served with a filling and a side of sauces. I had them several times and they were delicious!
 |
| Momo's with sauces |
Spices
 |
| Me at the Pushkar spice and tea hop |
Dal (pronounced dawl), made from dried split pulse, lentils and rice is a staple in India. I ate it often, and it's very tasty.
 |
| Dal |
Chi-Tea
 |
| Making Chi tea |
 |
| Chai tea served in disposable clay cups |
Herbal medicine
Many Indians use herbal medicines, and aroma therapy, called Ayurveda, to cure a variety of ailments. I have no idea if they are effective or not, but I did buy a small container of aroma therapy liquid to help sleep. We'll see if it works.
Beer
There are several Indian beers but the most popular is Kingfisher, which I had most often. It is quite good, but expensive. Whiskey is made in India but I never had any, nor did I have any Indian wine because its not sold often.
Icons
From conversations with guides here's a short list of some of India's most admired icons:
Buddha
Jawaharial Neru - Prime Minister, and leader of independence movement along with Gandhi.
BR Ambedkar - politician and social reformer who framed the constitution, and instrumental in the independence movement. He was a champion for the rights of the underprivileged, and instilled self respect among Dalits. He has a strong following in India.
Mahatma Gandhi - The leader of independence movement. Everyone I met greatly admired Gandhi.
Mother Teresa of Calcutta - Catholic nun who helped the poor.
Narendra Modi - Prime Minister
Beer
There are several Indian beers but the most popular is Kingfisher, which I had most often. It is quite good, but expensive. Whiskey is made in India but I never had any, nor did I have any Indian wine because its not sold often.
Icons
From conversations with guides here's a short list of some of India's most admired icons:
Buddha
 |
| Narenda Modi |
Symbols
Buddhist Dharmachakra wheel.
 |
| Dharmachakra wheel |
Hindu Swastika, which means 'everything is good' and 'good luck.' It looks like the Nazi symbol but it's different.
 |
| Hindu Swsastika |
Lotus flower, which to Hindu's means politeness, and to Buddhists means wisdom, or supreme knowledge.
 |
| Lotus floweer |
Lord Ganesha, the Elephant is an important God of Hindus. He is a man with an elephant head, and represents auspiciousness, remover of obstacles, and wisdom.
 |
| Ganesha |
Flag of India-its colors are saffron, white and green with the Askoka Chokra in the center. It reminded me of the Buddhist wheel.
 |
| Flag of India |
 |
| Peacock - the national bird |
The first time I heard chanting was at the Dali Lama's temple in McLeod Gange, Dharmasala. The deep melodic sound from the Tibetan monks was very pleasing. Chanting is a traditional means of preparing for meditation, or for ritualistic purposes. 'Om Mani Padme Hum' is a popular Tibetan chant of the Vajrayana tradition, and my personal favorite.
America
People often asked where I was from, and of course, I told them America. The reaction was often "Ah, America, the most powerful nation in the world." or "Obama, the most powerful man in the world."
Some things bugged me
Poor sanitation
The restrooms are awful, and rarely have toilet paper. On Bill Gates visit to India Oct 7, 2014 he said "It seems surprising when you think about all the innovation coming out of India but 630,000 people there defecate in the open because they don't have access to a commode. Creating good sanitation options for people, a safe place to poop is a big focus of our foundation. Narenda Modi has done more than any other leader since India's independence to create more awareness about the need for toilets."
 |
| Bill Gates vist to India |
 |
| Typical latrine |
Although it was not the monsoon season I often encountered flooded streets, which slowed us down considerably. A few times I wondered if I was going to be stuck in a not so nice town. Fortunately my driver, Vipan, managed to detour our way out.
Infrastructure
Roads in India are pathetic, and garbage is everywhere. It takes at two to three times longer to travel any distance in India than it would in the US. The Internet system is awful which is why I'm writing this blog after returning home.
Rip offs and scams
Ripping off and scamming tourists is common. I experienced this a few times when I was charged 500 rupees for a rickshaw ride when it should have cost a hundred rupees. The clerk at the Red Fort charged me twice the normal price, but when I questioned her I got my money back. I caught her in the act. American tourists are perceived as rich so they are prime targets. I learned to make sure the price was agreed to before riding in a rickshaw or cab.
Indian standard time
Slow service
Service is just plain slow. It takes twice as long for workers to fulfill a service than it does in the US.
Traffic and noise
India is the noisiest place I've ever been, and traffic in Delhi is beyond imagination. Horns are blowing incessantly. Someone said, "Our national sport is blowing horns."
Garbage
But in spite of these things that bugged me, there were many more things that I liked, including the diversity, music, cuisine, culture, friendly people, chi tea, history, temples, museums and more. My favorite cities were Bodhgaya, Varanasi, Dharmasala, and Pushkar.
Holidays
India celebrates many Hindu, Sikh, Christian, and Islamic public holidays, twenty or more. When I was there they were celebrating Mahatma Gandhi's birthday Oct 2, and Diwali Day 'festival of lights' on Oct 22, signifying the victory of light over darkness, knowledge over ignorance, good over evil, and hope over despair.
Water supply
Many people in India do not have access to clean water in their homes for the fundamental necessities of life; drinking, bathing and cleaning. I saw many people all over India carrying clay pots of water on their heads, which they have to do every day.
 |
| A typical scene |
 |
| Children fetching water in Pushkar |
Economy
Independence Act
Just because the price of something is 100 rupees doesn't mean that's what you pay, except for things like gas, food, and hotels. When I would say "no thanks" to something for 100 rupees and walk away the vendor would then say, "OK, how about 75?" then, "How about 50?", and finally "OK, name your price." They are relentless, and very pushy.
Drinking water
Before leaving I was told not to drink the water so I adhered to that good advice. All of the water I drank was from sealed water bottles and I never got sick. I also never ate any of the street vendor food, although it looked good.
Staring
Men typically stare at women, for a variety of reasons, and not always sexual. Sometimes they're just curious. Yeah, right!
Men typically stare at women, for a variety of reasons, and not always sexual. Sometimes they're just curious. Yeah, right!
 |
| men staring |
Turbans
Orthodox Sikh men wear turbans. They do not cut their hair and bind it up in a turban. Muslim men wear a Tagiya cap.
India is one of the poorest countries in the world with more than 450,000, or 25% of the population below the poverty line. I saw poverty and beggars everywhere, like I've never seen before. I saw many slums where people were living in shacks. It was difficult to helplessly witness this.
Orthodox Sikh men wear turbans. They do not cut their hair and bind it up in a turban. Muslim men wear a Tagiya cap.
 |
| Hindu wearing Turbin |
 |
| Muslim wearing Tagiya in Old Delhi |
 |
| Muslim Tagiya's |
 |
| Sikh wearing a Tagiya in Amristar |
Can't say "No"
Indians don't like to disappoint, so they never say 'no'. They may some times say, "I'll try. Whenever I asked my driver, Vipan, to do something for me he'd say, "Yes Mr. Rick, of course, whatever you want."
Poverty
Indians don't like to disappoint, so they never say 'no'. They may some times say, "I'll try. Whenever I asked my driver, Vipan, to do something for me he'd say, "Yes Mr. Rick, of course, whatever you want."
Poverty
 |
| Slun in Pushkar |
 |
| Children in Amristar |
 |
| Women making dung paddies for fuel with no gloves |
Transportation
India has many of the traditional forms of transportation. I traveled mostly in guide driven cars and motorcycles, cycle and auto rickshaws and airplanes. These were all inexpensive by US standards. I did not travel by the overcrowded buses or trains.
Bollywood
Bollywood is India's version of Hollywood, and is the major producer of films in India. Professor Ellis of Dartmouth introduced me to Bollywood movies. Actor Amitabh Bachchan is regarded as the most influential actor in the history of Indian cinema.
India has many of the traditional forms of transportation. I traveled mostly in guide driven cars and motorcycles, cycle and auto rickshaws and airplanes. These were all inexpensive by US standards. I did not travel by the overcrowded buses or trains.
Bollywood
Bollywood is India's version of Hollywood, and is the major producer of films in India. Professor Ellis of Dartmouth introduced me to Bollywood movies. Actor Amitabh Bachchan is regarded as the most influential actor in the history of Indian cinema.
 |
| Amitabh Bachchan |
Baba is an honorific word meaning grandfather, or wise old man. It's an informal way of saying father. I was called 'Baba' in India. My granddaughter's Addison and Avery have called me Baba since they first spoke.
What I appreciated most
I am grateful for this experience. Traveling to India gave me a bigger perspective on life. Learning more about the ancient religions of India, Hinduism, Buddhism, Sikhism, and Jainism, walking and sitting where the Buddha did 2,500 years ago, the Gandhi museum, sitting under the Bodi Tree, walking through the Taj Mahal, pouring my friend Charles' ashes in the Ganges River, seeing so many temples, witnessing abject poverty, the food, and experiencing a totally different civilization. This a powerful journey. I hope in some way it will make me a better person.
Keep an open mind
Namaste!
No comments:
Post a Comment