On the Road

Some time ago I began a meditation practice and study of Buddhism, which led to an interest in learning about India's culture and religions. Although I am engaged in Buddhism, I'm a practicing Catholic. These may seem like divergent paths but they both teach similar values. I'm curious about all religions. All the great religions are in harmony with truth. I'm often drawn to the question, What's calling me?

India is considered the land of spirituality and birthplace of religion-Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism. Hinduism is the oldest religion in the world, and the dominant religion in India with its pantheon of gods, goddesses. The population of India is 1.2 billion people and made up of 80% Hindu, 14% Islam, 2% Christian, 2% Sikh, 1% Buddhist, and 0.5% Jain. Visiting India has been a goal of mine for some time. Mark Twain once said, "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness, and many people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all of one's lifetime."

So, I decided to pursue my goal of learning more about India not just from books but first hand experience, and make a real connection with people in India. I traveled to Delhi, Amristar, Dharmasala, Simla, Chandigarh, Bikaner, Mandawa, Jodhpur, Pushkar, Jaipur, Agra, Varanasi, and Bodhgaya, covering more than 5000 km's, by car, and a couple of flights. I immersed myself India's culture, and had many fascinating conversations with a lot of people. From my experience India could be described as a potpourri of many unique and interesting things; friendly people, chaotic, rich history, over population, vibrancy, optimism for a better future under Prime Minister Modi, Gandhi, Neru, independent, busy, beautiful monasteries, temples and shrines, mosques, Vedic rituals, brilliant colors, pashmina scarves, meditation and yoga, tourists, ancient holy cities, beautiful gardens, art, holy cities, ghats, Ganges River, Taj Mahal, birthplace of Buddhism, rickshaws, motor bikes, bargaining, beggars, bazaars and markets, leprosy, dust, heat, pollution, unsafe drinking water, air pollution, unsanitary rest rooms, asceticism, prayerfulness, unproductive workers, museums, music, poverty, crematoriums, animals everywhere, sacred cows, camels, boars, elephants, monkeys, traditions, Bhagavad Gita, caste system, rice fields, underpaid farm workers, Dharma, noise, arranged marriage, astrology, delicious cuisine, Dal, mo mo's, vegetarians, Kingfisher beer, spices and chi tea. Everyone I met radiated friendliness.

Pia Mollback Verbic, director of Quipper Research may have said it best, 

"India is simply a minefield of relentless, emotional and daily challenges for most non-Indians, and nothing less than a riddle obstacle course, which can only be navigated with a hearty dose of humor, expansive capacity for patience, and tolerance for the illogical" 

Yes, India is !ncredible.  I've always enjoyed being on the road. It has taught me much about life being away from home, but this journey to India was my greatest teacher, as it opened my eyes and gave me a broader perspective on life. It enabled me to see things so differently from what I had seen before and accustomed to. Its made me appreciate how fortunate I am being born in America with so many advantages and living in the beautiful state of Vermont with its fresh air, green mountains, orchards, fairs, corn-fields, country stores, ice cream, cheeses, beers, skiing, clean lakes and rivers, maple syrup, farms, horses, churches, chicken, cows, hearty people, quietness and rich most of all, the most of all the quality of life.  

Life is a journey and this journey was filled with so much life. 
This is the first blog, so I'm new at this. My intention was to post for my family and friends each day while in India, but because of poor Internet connection I was not able to do so. So, this is a historical view of my trip. I hope you'll find this interesting (Italics for emphasis are mine).

Here's a map of my 5000 kilometers On the Road

Namaste

Sept 23 - Staging Area

Pack lighter

A few days before departure, Kathy took this shot of my packing staged in the guest bed room: 3 pairs of hiking pants/shorts, extra shorts, 3 long sleeve, 2 short sleeve shirts, 1 hat, 1 fleece, 1 bathing suit, 1 pair of gloves, 2 pairs of shoes, toiletries, first aid kit, small camera, keyboard for my iPad, water filter and bottles, power cords, documents, guide books, maps and a journal. I squeezed everything into my large LL Bean duffel bag. I also loaded my back pack with my I-phone, itinerary, passport/visa, and lots of reading material for the long flight.

Within a week in India I realized I packed way too much and wished I had simplified. The next time I'll pack lighter.

Sept 26 - Arrival Delhi

Gandi International

I arrived at Indira Gandhi International at 12:30 am after a 20+hour Lufthansa flight.  The 1-hour cab ride to the hotel was my first sight of Indian poverty; many homeless people sleeping on the side of the road among cows, camels and dogs. The airport is big, beautiful and modern.

Delhi, the capital of India, and second largest city in India, has a population of 12 million people. Hindi is the main language, often intermixed with English

Sept 26 - Delhi

Day of Sightseeing

After a good first night's sleep in the Hotel Broadway I decided to take a walk into the city for the first time, where I saw so much happening: brilliant colors, horns blowing, rickshaws, traffic jams, crowded streets, garbage, (holy) cows and camels pulling wagons. I had never seen anything like it. Most striking were the very friendly people. Every time I greeted someone with 'Namaste' they responded in kind with a smile. I felt and an immediate connection. There were vendors everywhere cooking tempting food, but I resisted not wanting to take the risk of getting sick. This was the most colorful and alive city I've ever seen. Later I visited the immense Red Fort built in 1638 of red sandstone. It's a reminder of the power and pomp of the Moghul emperor, and includes the Hall of Public Audience, white marble Hall of Private Audience, The Pearl Mosque, The Royal Baths and The Palace of Color. 

Sept 27 - Delhi

Unexpected change of plans

Saturday morning I bought a local SIM card from Airtel for 500 rupees ($8) which my 
daughter in law, Sharon, recommended. She saved me a lot of money on phone calls home every day. I walked through the markets and bazaars of Old Delhi, which were busy and heavily congested - amazing! Each street specialized in a commodity: colorful fabrics, linens  & shawls, clothing, jewelry, all kinds of food--fruits, cheese, tea, and Indian spices. There were even shops that specialize in wedding fabrics.  Then I went to the president's house, India Gate, Parliament and the main Historic Gurudwara Bangla Sahib Sikh temple. 
I arrived at the train station for the 4:30 pm train to Amritsar, but told it was delayed 7.5 hours due to massive flooding in Kashmir. I found a travel agent who changed my itinerary to include the western state of Rajasthan. Later, I made an afternoon visit to the Lodi Garden, built in the 15th century during the Afghan Dynasty which then ruled northern India.

Sept 28 - Delhi

Gandhi

I began the day with a visit to the Birla House, where MK Gandhi (1869-1944) spent the last 144 days of his life and was assassinated January 30, 1948. It is now known as the Gandhi Smirti and is the eternal Gandhi museum. It is filled with a large collections of books, art, photos and memorabilia connected with Gandhi. On display were the few possessions he owned at the time of his death, perhaps ten, a walking stick, clock, eating utensils. I was moved by his simplicity. He said, "Live simply so that others may simply live."
Also on display is the blood soaked shawl he wore when assassinated. 

Gandhi is regarded by most everyone as India's greatest leader. This was an inspirational experience. 

Paintiing of Gandhi

Gandhi's simple office

Gandhi's bedroom

Sept 29 - Jallianwala Bagh, Amristar

Amristar Massacre

After the Golden Temple I visited the scene of the Amritsar massacre of April 13, 1919. Brig. General Michael Dwyer of the British Indian Army ordered his 50 riflemen to fire thousands of rounds into the crowd of unarmed, non-violent protestors celebrating the Punjabi New Year. Within 10 minutes 1000 were dead, and more wounded. These people were protesting the arrest of two of their leaders. Dwyer claimed he was confronted by a 'revolutionary army' and was applauded by the British House of Lords. Winston Churchill however condemned the attack referring to it as "monstrous." A year later the Hunter Commission condemned his actions, and relieved him of his command. On March 13, 1940, in London he was assassinated by Udham Singh, who as a boy had witnessed the events in Amritsar. Sing was later hung for having assassinated Dwyer.

Well house where people fled to save their lives

Bullet holes from the 50 riflemen

Painting of the massacre with well house on the right

Sept 29 - Amristar

Golden Temple

I arrived at 4 am for morning prayer at Harmandie Sahib (means abode of God) also known as The Golden Temple. Guru Arjan Sahib conceived the idea of creating a central place of worship for Sikh's and people of all religions. He designed the temple and supervised construction which began in 1579 AD and completed in 1601 AD. More than 100,000 people visit each day from all over the world. There are four doors to get to get into the temple and they symbolize the openness of Sikh's toward all people and religions. This was a very special experience.

4A arrival at the Golden Temple

Sept 30 - Dharmasala

Dali Lama's Temple

After a seven hour drive north from Amritsar on windy roads, I arrived in McLeod Ganj in early evening and checked into the Serkong House Hotel, a very nice place. Tentso, the hotel manager recommended dinner at the nearby Tibet Kitchen, where I had chicken curry and rice. It was delicious and cost only $5. The food is incredibly cheap in India, but beer is expensive.

I awoke early in the morning to hear monks chanting from Tsuglagkhank, The Dali Lama's Temple--a beautiful sound. The temple was the highlight of my visit to McLeod Ganj. Thousands of people come here every year from all over the world to study Buddhism, and Tibetan culture. When I arrived at the temple I went to the reception desk to see if I could get an audience with the Dali Lama, but was told it was not possible. I then attended morning prayer service with several monks, nuns and lay people. Everyone greeted me with a warm smile and namaste. Later I had breakfast at the nearby Chonor House hotel, where Richard Gere stays when visiting the Dali Lama. I joined two women from Wiesbaden, Germany; Andrea and Ramona, who I had seen earlier at the temple. Breakfast of tea and porridge was delicious.

Prayer wheels inside Tsuglkhang

HH the Dali Lama

Dali Lama's Temple entrance

Prayer Wheels

After breakfast I walked the square along with the many animals; (holy) cows, dogs, monkeys, Tibetan monks, and tourists visiting shops selling religious objects of prayer beads, statues, books, CD's, bowls, shawls, Tibetan carpets and garments, and more. I spun prayer wheels for the first time, and recited Om Mani Padme Hum to 'accumulate merit. '

Women spinning prayer wheels reciting Om Mani Padme Hum to accumulate merit.

Oct 1 - Dharmasala lunch

Norbulinka

After Norbulinka I had lunch at a nearby restaurant where I was joined by architectural students from Delhi, who were also visiting Norbulinka. I asked them to design a hospital. They replied, "Sure, but first you have to give us your requirements." We had great fun.

Bright architectural students designing a hospital over lunch

Oct 1, Bhagsuang Temple & Karmapa Monastery

Bhagsuang Temple

I made a morning visit to the ancient Shiva, Bhagsuang Temple located in Bhagsu near McLeod Ganj. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. I entered the small temple and sat with a Brahman priest who painted my forehead and wrapped a red Kalava around my right wrist while reciting a prayer. I heard someone chanting "Om Namah Shivaya." Bagsu is described as a 'hippy paradise' and place of learning with courses in alternative medicine, self development and healing, Reiki, Chakra healing, massage, Tai Chi, Yoga and offers a shanti (peaceful) vibe; people said, 'shanti shanti.'

5000 year old Bhagsuanag Temple

Karmapa

In the afternoon I visited the Karmapa Monastery in lower Dharmsala, residence of the 17th Karmapa, Ogyen Trinley Dorje, head of the Kagyu school, one of the main schools of Buddhism. He escaped from Tibet in 1999. This is a school for 500 young monks who study Tantric Buddhism for 14 years. I witnessed afternoon chanting, and spent time in the library reading a few the Dali Lama's books, Words of Wisdom, The Path to Freedom, and A Policy of Kindness. The Dalhi Lama came here the next day.

Boy monks happy to be photographed

Monks chanting Sanskrit texts

Karmapa temple

Sanskrit texts in the Karmapa library

Oct 2 McLeod Ganj, Dali Lama Temple

Dali Lama

I inquired again about an audience with the Dalhi Lama and told I could see him the next day for the public ceremony.
I returned to the temple an hour before the 9 am ceremony and sat on the floor close to the stage to try and get a good view of HH. The temple was full of people from all over the world. There were many Tibetan monks and nuns. I've never seen so many people in a public place so quiet and serene. This event was in honor of Mahatma Gandhi's birthday. The speakers included Dr. Lobsang Sangay, Prime Minister of the exiled Tibetan government, Penpa Tsering, head of Parliament, women right's activist Judy Williamson of Brattleboro, VT, Shirin Ebadi, lawyer, judge, and founder of the Defenders of Human Rights Center in Iran, and the Dali Lama, who spoke without notes in Tibetan. He mentioned Gandhi several times as well as Martin Luther King, Desmond Tutu, and Nelson Mandala. He's charismatic, looked at everyone all around him and used a blend of laughter and seriousness.

Crowd gathered under the big tent at the Dali Lama Temple

Happy Birthhy sign at the Serkong House

Later in the day I got a close look at the Dali Lama when his motorcade returned to the temple after visiting students at Karmapa. We exchanged waves.

Sign on a door near the Dali Lama Temple

While walking back to my hotel from the temple I saw many women working on construction projects carrying mortar on their heads. I could not help think how backward the work practice is here. 

women carrying mortar

Brother Sanga

Around 6 pm I had tea at the Serkong House with Brother Sanga, a Tibetan monk from the Dali Lama's Temple, aide and close friend of the Dali Lama. We had a great discussion on Buddhism, and the Tibetan chant Om Mani Padne Hum. He was a great teacher, and very kind and generous with his time. I wish I had spent even more time with him. 

Oct 1 - Dharmasala, Norbulingka Institute

Norbulinka

I made a morning visit to the Norbulingka Institute; a very special place, quiet and beautiful. Norbulingka is dedicated to handling down Tibetan culture by providing education and employment for Tibetans. My guide gave me a free tour where I observed masters and apprentices at work making beautiful Tibetan artworks of Trangka paintings and sculptures created exactly as done for centuries. All of the work must conform to exact standards. This visit gave me a better understanding and greater appreciation of Tibetan art. 

Oct 3 Shimla

I left Dharmsala in the early morning and headed south to Shimla. After a 9-hour drive on steep, winding, foggy roads, with many cows and monkeys along the road I arrived at the Quality Hotel only to find there were no rooms. Shimla, the capital city of Himachal Pradesh, is beautiful, and a hub of tourism, once called the 'summer capital of British India.' This was the Hindu holiday weekend of Dussehra, dedicated to the deity Durga. 

Monkeys are everywhere in India

Shimla

Oct 3- Jwalamukhi

Jwalamukhi Temple

On the Dharmasala-Shimla road to Chandigarh I made a brief stop to visit the Hindu Jwalamukhi Temple, where the walk up to the temple was lined with many shops and food vendors. 

Walk to the temple

Oct 4-5 Chandigarh

The City Beautiful

Chandigarh is a large city in northern India and capital of the states of Punjab and Haryana, and called 'The City Beautiful.' It is considered the best planned city in India. And the quietest of the cities I visited. The French architect la Corbusier conceived the master plan analogous to the human body; the head as the capital, sector 1 the heart (there are 17 sectors), lungs - open space and greenery, intelligence - educational institutions, circulation system - network of roads, and viscera- industrial area. The concept of the city was based on four functions; living, working, care for the body and care for the spirit. Chandigarh reminded me of Reston, Va, also a planned city designed by Robert E. Simon, where we once lived.

Open Hand museum

Krishna

On entering the city of Chandigarh I passed by a beautiful large statue of Lord Krishna on a Chariot and Arjuna, from the famous Hindu text the Bhagavad Gita, which I studied with my friend George Wohlgemuth of Woodstock.

Hippo at Chatt Bir zoo

Nek Chand Rock Garden of Chandagarh

Women in India wear beautiful bright colored saris. I never saw women wearing western style clothes.

Women in bright colored saris at Sukhna Lake

Oct 8 Delhi

Gandhi Memorial & Raj Ghat

I returned to Delhi from Chandagarh late on the night of October 7. It felt like being home at the Tavisha Hotel where I had stayed the previous week. The friendly staff greeted me with smiles and seemed happy I was back. I met with my travel agent to make adjustments to my itinerary, where I said, "no more grueling 10-hour drives."

At breakfast the next morning my travel companion abruptly announced he was returning to Vermont. I decided to carry on. Unfortunately he missed out on an incredible experience.   Although I did not realize it at the time I soon realized that this gave me the freedom to choose what I wanted to do without any encumbrances. It became much more of a personal journey of discovery. 

I then visited the Gandhi Memorial and Raj Ghat where Gandhi was cremated. Barack and Michelle Obama visited there in November 2010. Thousands visit the Gandhi Samadi every day - its a beautiful memorial to a great man admired by everyone in India.

Gandhi Samadi Ghat with eternal flames

Swastika

My driver Vipan had a Swastika on his car window. It is a sacred symbol in India and denotes "good luck". I saw the swastika all over India.

After the Gandhi Memorial I returned for a second time to the Chimney Restaurant for lunch where the food is delicious and cheap; nan bread, curry chicken and fried rice for $5. It was packed with people from all over the world. A man from Norway joined my table. He was on a 10-month leave from teaching and traveling around the world alone. He was a nice guy.

Namaste

I soon realized that the customary way to greet and say good bye to strangers is by saying 'Namaste' or 'Namaskar' to senior persons. Every time I did they would respond with a sincere smile and say Namaste. It's a way of showing respect to one another.

Namaste!

Oct 9 Mandawa, Rajastan

Caravan of cows

Mandawa is a town of 20,000 people, 190 kilometers north of Jaipur, founded in the mid 18th century. The main attractions are the Mandawa Fort, and several beautiful havelis (mansions), adorned with large fresco paintings. The town is called the 'open art gallery' because of it's lavishly painted walls. On the road from Delhi to Mandawa I saw a lot of things i've never seen before. Here are a few:

Caravan of hundreds of cows along the road to Mandala from Delhi

...the roads were lined with garbage, like most streets in India.

A typical street full of animals and garbage