Sept 29 - Amristar

Golden Temple

I arrived at 4 am for morning prayer at Harmandie Sahib (means abode of God) also known as The Golden Temple. Guru Arjan Sahib conceived the idea of creating a central place of worship for Sikh's and people of all religions. He designed the temple and supervised construction which began in 1579 AD and completed in 1601 AD. More than 100,000 people visit each day from all over the world. There are four doors to get to get into the temple and they symbolize the openness of Sikh's toward all people and religions. This was a very special experience.

4A arrival at the Golden Temple

Sept 30 - Dharmasala

Dali Lama's Temple

After a seven hour drive north from Amritsar on windy roads, I arrived in McLeod Ganj in early evening and checked into the Serkong House Hotel, a very nice place. Tentso, the hotel manager recommended dinner at the nearby Tibet Kitchen, where I had chicken curry and rice. It was delicious and cost only $5. The food is incredibly cheap in India, but beer is expensive.

I awoke early in the morning to hear monks chanting from Tsuglagkhank, The Dali Lama's Temple--a beautiful sound. The temple was the highlight of my visit to McLeod Ganj. Thousands of people come here every year from all over the world to study Buddhism, and Tibetan culture. When I arrived at the temple I went to the reception desk to see if I could get an audience with the Dali Lama, but was told it was not possible. I then attended morning prayer service with several monks, nuns and lay people. Everyone greeted me with a warm smile and namaste. Later I had breakfast at the nearby Chonor House hotel, where Richard Gere stays when visiting the Dali Lama. I joined two women from Wiesbaden, Germany; Andrea and Ramona, who I had seen earlier at the temple. Breakfast of tea and porridge was delicious.

Prayer wheels inside Tsuglkhang

HH the Dali Lama

Dali Lama's Temple entrance

Prayer Wheels

After breakfast I walked the square along with the many animals; (holy) cows, dogs, monkeys, Tibetan monks, and tourists visiting shops selling religious objects of prayer beads, statues, books, CD's, bowls, shawls, Tibetan carpets and garments, and more. I spun prayer wheels for the first time, and recited Om Mani Padme Hum to 'accumulate merit. '

Women spinning prayer wheels reciting Om Mani Padme Hum to accumulate merit.

Oct 1 - Dharmasala lunch

Norbulinka

After Norbulinka I had lunch at a nearby restaurant where I was joined by architectural students from Delhi, who were also visiting Norbulinka. I asked them to design a hospital. They replied, "Sure, but first you have to give us your requirements." We had great fun.

Bright architectural students designing a hospital over lunch

Oct 1, Bhagsuang Temple & Karmapa Monastery

Bhagsuang Temple

I made a morning visit to the ancient Shiva, Bhagsuang Temple located in Bhagsu near McLeod Ganj. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. I entered the small temple and sat with a Brahman priest who painted my forehead and wrapped a red Kalava around my right wrist while reciting a prayer. I heard someone chanting "Om Namah Shivaya." Bagsu is described as a 'hippy paradise' and place of learning with courses in alternative medicine, self development and healing, Reiki, Chakra healing, massage, Tai Chi, Yoga and offers a shanti (peaceful) vibe; people said, 'shanti shanti.'

5000 year old Bhagsuanag Temple

Karmapa

In the afternoon I visited the Karmapa Monastery in lower Dharmsala, residence of the 17th Karmapa, Ogyen Trinley Dorje, head of the Kagyu school, one of the main schools of Buddhism. He escaped from Tibet in 1999. This is a school for 500 young monks who study Tantric Buddhism for 14 years. I witnessed afternoon chanting, and spent time in the library reading a few the Dali Lama's books, Words of Wisdom, The Path to Freedom, and A Policy of Kindness. The Dalhi Lama came here the next day.

Boy monks happy to be photographed

Monks chanting Sanskrit texts

Karmapa temple

Sanskrit texts in the Karmapa library

Oct 2 McLeod Ganj, Dali Lama Temple

Dali Lama

I inquired again about an audience with the Dalhi Lama and told I could see him the next day for the public ceremony.
I returned to the temple an hour before the 9 am ceremony and sat on the floor close to the stage to try and get a good view of HH. The temple was full of people from all over the world. There were many Tibetan monks and nuns. I've never seen so many people in a public place so quiet and serene. This event was in honor of Mahatma Gandhi's birthday. The speakers included Dr. Lobsang Sangay, Prime Minister of the exiled Tibetan government, Penpa Tsering, head of Parliament, women right's activist Judy Williamson of Brattleboro, VT, Shirin Ebadi, lawyer, judge, and founder of the Defenders of Human Rights Center in Iran, and the Dali Lama, who spoke without notes in Tibetan. He mentioned Gandhi several times as well as Martin Luther King, Desmond Tutu, and Nelson Mandala. He's charismatic, looked at everyone all around him and used a blend of laughter and seriousness.

Crowd gathered under the big tent at the Dali Lama Temple

Happy Birthhy sign at the Serkong House

Later in the day I got a close look at the Dali Lama when his motorcade returned to the temple after visiting students at Karmapa. We exchanged waves.

Sign on a door near the Dali Lama Temple

While walking back to my hotel from the temple I saw many women working on construction projects carrying mortar on their heads. I could not help think how backward the work practice is here. 

women carrying mortar

Brother Sanga

Around 6 pm I had tea at the Serkong House with Brother Sanga, a Tibetan monk from the Dali Lama's Temple, aide and close friend of the Dali Lama. We had a great discussion on Buddhism, and the Tibetan chant Om Mani Padne Hum. He was a great teacher, and very kind and generous with his time. I wish I had spent even more time with him. 

Oct 1 - Dharmasala, Norbulingka Institute

Norbulinka

I made a morning visit to the Norbulingka Institute; a very special place, quiet and beautiful. Norbulingka is dedicated to handling down Tibetan culture by providing education and employment for Tibetans. My guide gave me a free tour where I observed masters and apprentices at work making beautiful Tibetan artworks of Trangka paintings and sculptures created exactly as done for centuries. All of the work must conform to exact standards. This visit gave me a better understanding and greater appreciation of Tibetan art. 

Oct 3 Shimla

I left Dharmsala in the early morning and headed south to Shimla. After a 9-hour drive on steep, winding, foggy roads, with many cows and monkeys along the road I arrived at the Quality Hotel only to find there were no rooms. Shimla, the capital city of Himachal Pradesh, is beautiful, and a hub of tourism, once called the 'summer capital of British India.' This was the Hindu holiday weekend of Dussehra, dedicated to the deity Durga. 

Monkeys are everywhere in India

Shimla